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Richards of Mountainbrook

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Every now and then when I write something that really resonates with someone; I’ll get a private email in response and sometimes the correspondence itself is post-worthy. I wrote Nuanced Authenticity back in August and received a delightful recollection about a haberdashery in the affluent area of Birmingham, Alabama known as Mountain Brook. I’m sharing it with permission from my buddy TCD because his email is to me, as evocative as my original story.

Or maybe it just hits all of my maudlin buttons. At any rate, here’s to the “Richards of Mountain Brook” caliber haberdasheries of days gone by. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, I’m sorry that y’all…the younger set of Trads…missed these gems. And as my cousin Tin-Tin says of our now more derivative than ever world…“Not as good as it was. Better than it will be.”

Here’s TCD’s email…
“This post hit so many memory keys that I can't take the time to list them....but....

Our version of "your Singleton's" in a suburb of Birmingham, AL called Mountain Brook was "Richards of Mountain Brook".

It was located on a shady side street called Petticoat Lane in an old Tudor style building with two bay windows flanking an imposing door with a leaded glass coat of arms.

We knew we were adults when we graduated to Richards from the "Canterbury Shop" a half a block away.

"Canterbury" was our "nuance 101" with Bass Weejuns ( $14.95), Gant OCBD, surcingle belts in about one hundred color combinations, Corbin trousers & Southwick Blazers & sport coats....

"Richards" took a high school freshman to his Dad's world & instantly verified it was where you wanted to be even if it had not occurred to you before.....

As you stepped into the doorway, you were confronted by a huge round mahogany table with reps, clubs, & foulards (all of course labelled..."made in England expressly for Richards".... arranged spoke-in-wheel around the table grouped by color. Guarding the display on either side were two complete suits of armor.

Beyond the battle-ready armor were shelves and credenzas of Troy Guild OCBD....

Just down the center-hall, waist-high shelving displaying shoes (Crockett & Jones) and socks....

Suits (private label with requisite..."made in England" as well as Norman Hilton)....

Richard had a great eye and understood "Nuance" whether in selections offered or in antique furnishings which abundantly decorated the shop...

Just a great place (& owner) with a sixth sense in how to deploy service and an intelligent knowledge base of background of fabric, weave, fit, hand, & pattern as well as a flair for what was complimentary in terms of tradition or, if you dare, sprezzatura!

He magically combined both during the Christmas Season when posted Welsh Guards in full regalia in front of the shop and conducted Changing of the Guard twice per day....and then, when you had made your purchases....all were gift-wrapped in festive holiday color combinations of paper & ribbon in complex bows, each of which held a Johnny Walker scotch miniature.....

Thanks for the nudge to remember the late 60s and early 70s.....wonderful then and cherished now!”

Lucky Velvet

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Here we have the gallant Richard John Bingham, 7th Earl of Lucan. Lord Lucan…“Lucky”Lucan to his coterie of chance games friends.
Born in 1934, Lucan's aristocratic trajectory was formulaic...for a while. He spent two years at Eton where he seemed to hone his skills and appetite for anything but academic pursuits...mainly gambling.  And his poker skills, they say, sharpened during his next stop-off, this time with the Coldstream Guards. Lucan would inherit his father's titles in 1964.
The dashing Lucan eventually eschewed the ennui of traditional work for what he felt was a more thrilling method for generating dosh…gambling. Lucan had annual income from various family trusts but I suppose like other landed aristocrats, he needed to supplement it. So after the Guards, he took a position with the merchant bank, William Brandt's Sons and Co. After winning twenty six thousand pounds in two nights playing Chemin de Fer, Lucan declared "why should I work in a bank when I can earn a year's money in one single night at the tables?"
I reckon, in addition to  my absence of Lucan caliber dashing good looks and my now missing aristocratic papers, the other huge difference between Lucky and me is that I’m the worst gambler in the world. I saw Las Vegas, reluctantly last week but my money’s safe ‘cause I didn't go near the gaming tables.
But Lucky felt that he could beat the odds and keep the cash rolling in…forever. Seems to me like he had a low-grade death wish. Sort of a Charge of the Light Brigade calibre hubris not unlike the 3rd Earl of Lucan. I won’t belabor the story because like most gamblers, the next chapter in Lucky’s saga is again formulaic. The House, in the long-run, always-always wins.
Lucan was a regular at John Aspinall’s Cleremont Club in Berkley Square where highbrow titled folks gathered to gamble and also flirt with I suppose, additional randy pursuits. It was said of Aspinall’s Club member roster that…The list of the club's original members reads like a Who's Who of the British aristocracy: five dukes, five marquesses, 20 earls and two cabinet ministers.” And they all loved Lucky.
Happy endings are probably rare in the lives of professional gamblers...titled ones notwithstanding. Debt laden, amidst a contentious divorce and custody battle for his three children, it is presumed that the maniacally desperate Lucan himself was the bag-man who broke in to (he had a key) the family home on a November evening in 1974 at 46 Upper Berkeley Street and beat to death the family nanny. He also took a few good whacks at Lady Lucan, his supposed true intended victim.
I’ll leave the rest of the Lucan saga to you to sort out but suffice it to say the riveting is an understatement. Lucan disappeared and to this day, his whereabouts and status, while much debated, remains unresolved. Efforts to have him declared legally dead so that his son, the presumed 8th Earl may take his place in the Lords have so far, I believe, been unsuccessful.
So how the hell did I happen upon Lucan? It all came about when I was doing an internet search on the unknown to me, bespoke tailoring establishment, Cooling Lawrence and Wells. I’d never heard of them and was amidst reconnaissance as I was perilously close to pouncing on a velvet smoking jacket that according to the ebay seller’s measurements...was just my size. My appetite for velvet jacketings is well documented but I've always stayed away from the tricked out versions. Why have things that, as my Cousin Willie says, are for "parties that you no longer get invited to."
Tricked out versions? You know, one of those jackets with the really cool frogging…rope adorned sleeves and those twee little Siamese twin front closure buttons that say… “Even though you’ve seen my likes every time you’ve been in London, YOU of all people have no business buying one of me at full-retail. And you’ve even got less business buying one of my double breasted cousins.” 
Ok, point well-made but an ebay bargain ain’t ever out of the question or out of bounds. Shut up. So my research was important as I made a decision regarding what my maximum-minimum bids would be.
I searched Cooling Lawrence and Wells and the outcome was almost nil regarding the tailoring firm. None the less, the Lord Lucan smarmy back story bounty was enough to keep me enthralled for half-a-day. It seems that C-L&W were Lucan’s go-to tailor as well as his source for maintenance of his coronation robes.
They were on St. George Street in Hanover Square for a time before finishing out their existence as Wells of Mayfair over at 47 Maddox Street. Sadly, like much of the London I love; venerable old places like the C-L&W digs give way to, in this case, Browns Bar and Brasserie. I found a photo of  47 Maddox's current state on Google maps. What is Browns, you might ask? Think T.G.I. Fridays…butcept with a Cockney thang going on.
It seems that Lucan left quite a few of his suppliers in the lurch when he vanished. Lucan’s tailor wasn’t the only creditor lined up in the queue seeking relief once it was fait accompli regarding the likelihood that the old boy wasn’t gonna come round and square up any of his debts. Interestingly though, C-L&W decided that the coronation robes represented better collateral against Lucan’s debt than some silly old judgement. Smart they were.
Armed with my imagination, a trove of superficial information about Lucan and the confidence that the Velveeta avec frogging jacket was surely my size, I set my bid. Surely if the jacket had been made by Huntsman or Kilgour or Poole, I'd have set my bid slightly higher. Maddox Street...off the Row and unknown to me doesn't mean that the jacket ain't gonna be keen in every way. But I was treading in unknown, albeit fuzzy as hell, water.   
Leonard Logsdail gave me a bit of a tutorial on some of the off the Row tailors that are generally within a half mile or so of Savile Row. Many of them; and G. The Bruce Boyer also shares this view in his book, Elegance, are as good as or better than some on Savile Row. They simply lack the brand cachet of Poole, Huntsman and the like…and probably the price tag too.
Len also shared when I met him at the Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. auction reception, that some of the off the Row tailors like Fairbanks Jr.’s Stovel & Mason Ltd did pretty decent work on thicker fabrics such as velvet or those used for country pursuits togs, while not turning out quite the same garment in lighter weight fabrics where clever cutting and sewing nuance with adroit hands is required.
All’s well that ends well and I suppose I’m lucky that there wasn’t another 38 Regular-esque Downton Abbey wannabe sartorialist bidding on my C-L&W velvet fuzzy out-the-a_s dinner jacket. It arrived here at Manor Minimus, shipping included, for less than a Benjamin.
And it fits like a damn glove. 
January 1976 saw its completion and my imagination wants me to believe that perhaps Lord Lucky's coronation robes remained somewhere on the premises, in fellowship for a while, with my jacket.
Rumor has it that I’ll see 2012 out and 2013 ring-in down Richmond,Virginia way as the guest of Mr. Elegantologist himself.
Furthered by the rumor mill is that Messrs C-L&W’s creation will be on my back…at least till I decide to take my clothes off. Now I’m wondering if I can wear this thing with 501’s?
Onward. No Christmas tree this year. No ho.

ADG…Deuce

Better Days: Tom Wolfe on Richard Merkin—1992

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It’s no secret that I love Tom Wolfe and loved Richard Merkin. Well, actually, I still love Richard Merkin. There’s enough of Richard on my walls and in my sartorial literature files for me to consider him still here.
I love Tom Wolfe’s dandified cocksurety – his Southern lilted verbal aplomb when gracefully responding to such charges as his novels aren't really novels and indictments that cry "for God’s sake man, get a better f_cking editor." I won’t characterize Wolfe’s posture and conversation as self-deprecating because it isn't  Here’s my take—Wolfe has an ivory, tight-twist gabardine swathed, steely, courteous elegance. With a scant lisp.
And then we have Wolfe’s  great personal friend, Merkin. If I was ever limited to one depiction of Merkin, it would be Alan Flusser’s take on the multifaceted flâneur…and I paraphrase loosely here because I’m too lazy to walk across the room and pull the reference. But Alan said that “coming upon Merkin on the street is like walking through a Bazaar in Marrakesh. You don’t know what to look at first!” Bam. I mean really. Merkin was Brooklyn and Coney Island to Wolfe’s Richmond and Yes Ma’am No Ma’am.
Both may be assigned to the Sartorial Dandy Pantheon but their nomination dossiers, while equal in content, would be thematically opposite. The case for Wolfe’s membership would be firmly affixed to an unwavering, off-white, monochromatic gaggle of forensics. 
Merkin’s on the other hand, wouldn’t be firmly affixed to a damn thing – At least not one singularly thematic thing. His bipolar variance in color, texture, epoch and melody made my fuzzy-ass closet look like a storage rack of  identical burgundy choir robes. I’d reckon that Merkin’s folder would surely contain his own words when he posited that his sartorial style was “somewhere between the Duke of Windsor and the Duke of Ellington.”  
Photo from Rose Callahan's Dandy Portraits
And I just think it’s cool as hell to have friends—true friends—those anything but Facebook defined friends—you know—the ones who would come get you at three in the morning. Well that was Merkin and Wolfe. I borrowed from Rose Callahan, this photo of Merkin, Wolfe and their other great friend, lawyer Eddie Hayes.
I’m always on the lookout for Merkin ephemera...having all of his GQ columns that he wrote over twenty years ago and of course, the treasures that his widow, Heather, sent me after Merkin died. And recently I came across a few  exhibition catalogues from Merkin's gallery shows back in the early 1990’s. And much to my delight, Tom Wolfe wrote the introduction to the Helander Galleries’ 1992 Merkin show, Better Days. Unlike you high-minded, copy editors-in-another-life, critics of Wolfe’s words,I, the verbose lexiconical rambler my-damn-self, would read Wolfe’s grocery lists if they were availed to me. So reading his Helander-Merkin treatise was great fun. Shut the ___ up. 
 So this morning, with reverence but without permission from Bruce Helander or others who might have copy rights and prefer that I not transcribe Wolfe’s essay, I typed from the exhibition catalogue, one friend’s erudite commentary on contemporary art in general, in tandem with his more specific efforts to convey and characterize the other friend’s art.  For those who, like me, love art and Wolfe and Merkin, I hope you enjoy reading it.
 “The paintings and pastels of Richard Merkin are part of a strain of Modernism that is well established in England, the home of his natural brethren, R.B. Kitaj, FrancisBacon, Peter BlakeLucien Freud,Ronald Searle,Henry Lamb, Michael Andrews,StanleySpencer, and David Hockney. They are what might be called the Modernist Wits. This creates a problem – even for Bacon – since within the art world, and especially the American art world, Modernism and Wit are a contradiction in terms.
Merkin like his confreres, uses various stylistic devices of Modernism; in his case, two-dimensional pictures, solid blocks of color, abstracted shapes, conventional contours, unshaded forms, and so-called all-over design, in which no part of a picture has any greater weight than any other, All that is on the credit side of the ledger up in Art Heaven, of course. But Merkin, like the other wits, presents subject matter that violates one Modernist taboo after another. As tout le monde, or tout lemonade d’art, knows, a picture is not supposed to tell a little story, suggest an anecdote, be funny, make you cry or get angry, tune up the sentimental side of your nature, illustrate the world around you, dwell upon historical details for their journalistic or historic value, or present likenesses for their own sake. Alas, these are sins that Wits wallow in.
The art world will allow exceptions from time to time, the most notable being Picasso’s large cartoon comment on the Spanish Civil War, Guernica, painting at a moment when anti-Fascist feeling and Left sentiment had reached their apogee among European and American intellectuals. Guernica was expressly designed to make the viewer weep and get angry over Francisco Franco’s bombing of civilians(and will probably be viewed by art students in the 21st century, with their damnable detachments from the problems of our epoch, as a howler, one of the most ludicrous pictures ever taken seriously by well-educated people). It is worth noting that Picasso never attempted such pictorial comment again, returning forever after to the safe and fashionable imagery of classical mythology.
Pop Art wasn’t even an exception. The Pop artists never illustrated the world around them or even created their own images from it. Pop was a studio game played within a tight set of Modernist rules, eventually codified by the Pop Apollinaire, Lawrence Alloway. The Pop artists took their images not from life but from art created by anonymous graphic artists and industrial designers including flags and numbers and letters found in commercial printing fonts. Some, such as Warhol, never did anything other than lift images directly from existing commercial art or photographs, altering only the size and coloring, if that much. Others did near-copies. The game, said Alloway, consisted of producing pictures that were neither abstract nor realistic but rather had to do with “sign systems.” There is not a single painting within the canon of Pop in which an artist attempts his own depiction of life in the extraordinary decade in which Pop grew up, the 1960’s.
Underlying the Modernist stance, whether one is talking about style, content or theory, is the belief that the great artist is a holy beast , a natural who receives flashes, known as inspiration, straight from the godhead which is known as Creativity. A holy beast is not a rational, calculating, analytical, and intellectually detached person. In fact, in the Modernist view, rationality, calculation, analysis, and detachment are detritus, impediments to creativity. The Modernist artist is supposed to be like the Gnostic Christian, who sought to get rid of the detritus of civilization in order to reveal the light of God that exists at the apex of every human soul. Draftsmanship, true rendering, perspective, and shading are all analytical undertakings. So are wit, satire and commentary. In the Modern view these are all pieces of age-old junk that must be thrown out.
In England the art world – which consists of about five hundred dealers, curators, professors, critics and artists in London, Oxford and Cambridge who determine all matters of taste – has never been completely dominated by orthodox Modernism. There has remained some room in which the mavericks such as Kitaj and Bacon could cut up. But in the American art world, which consists of about 300 similar souls (some 300 of whom do not live in the New York City area) orthodoxy is a far more solemn business.
Merkin’s very picture titles, Van Lingle Mungo’s Havana, Our First Detective of the Broken Heart are a gob of spit in the face of Modernist taste, since they actually describe the pictures, which are loaded with specific historic references, and are shamelessly entertaining. Stylistically, Merkin has been as Modern as any of the Wits. Particularly in his Van Lingle Mungo period, the mid-1970’s, his work was rigorously two-dimensional, his contours were highly conventionalized, his canvases were covered edge to edge and corner to corner, with solid color shapes of equal density, field and figure were given equal emphasis, no matter how amusing the figures – and the figures tended, like Mungo, a one-time pitcher for theBrooklyn Dodgers, to be long gone down Funny Street. The typical Merkin picture takes legendary American images – from baseball, the movies, fashion, Society, tabloid crime and scandal – and mixes them with his own autobiography, often with dream-style juxtapositions. Merkin himself is always recognizable as the toff with the Cold Stream Guards mustache, popping up amid the romp.
In the past he has been as much a colorist and all over designer as,  say, Matisse or, to bring the matter closer to home, Malcolm Morley, an Australian now living in the United States (who could perhaps be included in the ranks of Modernist Wits). In his most recent work, however, Merkin has begun to violate even the stylistic taboos. In 1990, in paintings such as Re: Joe Stern #2, he began to use a draftsmanship more sophisticated, more in the vein of 1920s European satirical art, than anything allowed in the Modernist canon. In the current show, he gives us graphic focal points such as the white figure in pith helmet against a swath of black in Our First Detective of the Broken Heart. The focus is re-emphasized by the use of lines of perspective in the roof above. This is not the Modernist way.
The truth may well be the Merkin is impossible to characterize even with a grouping such as the Modernist Wits. The fascinating thing, in the last analysis, is not that he is in some way like Kitaj or Bacon or Searle or Spencer of Hockney or that the whole crowd has swum upstream – but, rather that he, like them, his kinfolk, has managed in an age of High Orthodoxy to become that rarest of creatures, the artist who is sui generis.”

Christmas Morning ’66: Stony vs. Joe

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I’ve written about how absolutely riveting it was when the Sears Catalogue…the Christmas Book…arrived at our house. My sister and I would fight like cats and dogs over it ‘til my mom would remind us that “Santa Claus is watching you.” Never during the years that I believed in the fat man was anything more effective at getting my a_s to settle down.
I'm sitting this morning...Christmas morning 2012, propped against the headboard of my twin bed, in the same bedroom and twin bed that hosted me from my fourth year of life till I split for college. The Wild West light cover on the ceiling is the same one that I stared up at during all those years…but a separate story manifests there and I’ll write it later this week while I’m home and inspired. But for now, let’s talk Stony and Joe.
Like every boy in my neighborhood during the mid to late sixties and into the early seventies, I vacillated between make believe games of mostly playing army or Wild West. I think I mentioned in my story about childhood toys that by 1970-ish as Vietnam was in full-swing, some of my best memories are of my mom taking me to Mangum’s Army-Navy Store on Dargan street and allowing me, with maybe five to ten bucks that I’d saved, to buy army surplus stuff for next to nothing. Ten bucks went a long way when you were buying helmet liners, ammo belts, ponchos, trenching tools and the like for a buck fifty to three bucks per go. Nirvana.
Maybe today’s kids will be able to recollect thirty-plus years from now the same level of absolute endorphin flush and giddy excitement about their activities. Certainly they’ll relish memories of emoticon peppered texting, right? As opposed to my 1968 Walkie-Talkie set that during the twenty minutes when the batteries actually worked; you could hide in the azalea bushes and bark out army orders cryptically and statically to your best buddy. But only if he was within two feet of your azalea camouflaged lair. Nirvana again…till one of the azalea frequenting bumble bees stung the dooky out of you for setting up your command post in their neck of the woods or your mama caught you in her prized azaleas.
I’m sure that kids today will as adults, share equally joyous memories of sitting inside all-day affixed to the toggles of a game console or the absolute majesty of an X-Box whatever. But something tells me that the mud and grime encrusted army surplus trenching tool I bought with my allowance offered me and my imagination, something that kids today can’t and don’t care to fathom. I also suspect that we burned a few more calories. Ok, this started out as an effort to share my Stony vs. GI Joe memory and I’ve now manifested a five hundred and sixty seven word digression. Sorry. Shut up.
So Christmas morning 1966-ish saw me in awe of Santa’s ability to know exactly what I wanted, even after I changed my mind a hundred times. And mostly I wanted Army stuff. I can’t remember the circumstances around my desire for the action figure, Stony but I can assure you that once I saw him and his collateral kit propped up on the sofa, the rest of my loot was irrelevant.
I’d been playing with little plastic army men for the previous few years since I’d gotten old enough to quell my mom’s worry that I’d eat ‘em. But this Stony figure took the whole playing army thang to another level. Even though he was in one sense, just a bigger version of a plastic army man—his fatigues with bulging pockets were nothing more than an extruded plastic version of my little green plastic troops—but he was cooler. Mainly because he was bigger but also because he was mildly articulated—you could bend his arms at the elbows. That’s where his pose-ability ended but to me it was a pretty cool little option as opposed to my variously posed, frozen in time and action, little plastic army men.
And the icing on my Stony cake was all the gear that came with him. Various headwear and weaponry and a couple of other little gadgets—all made from the same extruded green plastic that Stony—with the exception of his slightly more detailed head and hands—had been created.
The climate on Christmas mornings in Florence, South Carolina is generally mild so I was ready to hit the back yard and create the perfect environment for Stony to manifest, courtesy of my imagination, his combat-esque damn self. There was Miller’s ditch or the crawl space under our house that had already served as the trench warfare setting for my little plastic army men and those were just two immediate options that came to mind. A couple of phone calls…maybe to S.S., R.R., M.W. or J.F. and if they’d gotten a Stony too, Lord only knows that we’d have contrived by lunchtime. But alas, it was not to be.
“Don’t get dirty and as a matter of fact, don’t go outside. We are headed to Charlotte as soon as I get you and your sister fed.”Perhaps in other circumstances, this admonishment/logistics update from my mom would have devastated a little boy amidst his new toys on Christmas morning. But I was cool with it. Charlotte was Charlotte, North Carolina and that meant we were headed to visit one of my mom’s six sisters for a few days. And her son, my two-years-older cousin Gary, was my idol. When you aren't too many years out of training pants, two years difference in age is an eternity. But my cool cousin Gary was nice to me and played with me and always had different toys and did stuff that was just mildly more advanced than what I was used to doing and I loved all that and him.
The Steele Creek and Shopton Road area of Charlotte back then was really rural and my Aunt Eula and Uncle Frank weren't part of the Myers Park crowd. They lived out in the country. I understand now that like a lot of Charlotte, their neck of the woods has long since been paved over amidst Charlotte’s quest to strip any semblance of its former self from today’s strata. But when I was a kid, my visits to cousin Gary’s house was full-on rural fun. There were still a few small working farms around and we’d sneak over to this big hay barn and crawl through tunnels that Gary and his friends had made by shimmying bales out of the stacks in strategic places. Of course it was a death trap. And it was other worldly exciting. Mainly because I was temporary wing-man to my cousin Gary and because it was, literally at a hundred and ten-ish miles from my house, another world.
Gary always had cooler army surplus stuff than I did and he was the inspiration for me going back home one time and painting army medic white circles on my surplus helmet liner helmet. My older sister, in a rare moment when she didn’t want to kill me, then painted with our mom’s fingernail polish, the red crosses within the circles. I’d a mimicked any and everything that Gary did. He was my idol. (For those of you who don’t understand “helmet liner helmet” let me explain. WWII and Vietnam era army helmets were made of heavy steel. Underneath the steel helmet was a removable particle fibered liner with canvas mesh webbing on the inside that was the actual contact point for your head. When removed from the steel helmet, the liner looked identical to the helmet including the dark olive drab color and it weighed a fraction of the actual helmet. We would buy the helmet liners for two dollars at the Army-Navy store and bam! We were in helmet business.)
Predictably, my mom told me and my sister to pick one thing from Santa stuff that we’d like to take with us to Aunt Eula and Uncle Frank’s. I of course, took Stony and his gear. The two and a half hour trip to Charlotte I’m thinking, was probably devoid of our usual brother-sister fighting in the back of my mom’s Vista Cruiser station wagon for I’m sure that Stony and I were war gaming it all the way there. And who gives a sh_t what my sister was doing? I mean, really. But if she was playing Barbie, surely that hot little number from Mattel woulda been checking Stony’s junk.
So we roll in on my aunt’s house and after the typical hugs and kisses—my people are huggers and kissers—I made a beeline for my cousin Gary’s bedroom and what would be a palpable, sugar-to-shit moment. Sugar-to-shit? You bet. Probably my first. You see, I was about to experience the same rapid plunge into a flat-affect reality that I was to feel years later when pulling up in my MG Midget and seeing for the first time, a Triumph GT-6.
 All the cool things about my MG became bland and boxy and uninspiring compared to the cool lines of the Triumph. I'd learn within an hour or so that my dad was gonna offer me the GT-6 but until then, I felt kinda...jealous.
It happened again years later in New Orleans as I was driving down Metairie Road one afternoon with the top down on my then weekend car; a perfectly sublime for its moment, sans everything but well edited basics, Mazda Miata.
The all new BMW Z-3 passed by me and from that moment on, my Miata was a Janis Ian, At Seventeen, ugly duckling, surely not to be selected “when choosing sides for basketball.” And I’m not proud to report, but I must do so for karmic reasons, the fact that in my much earlier dating years, the sugar-to-shit thing happened with women—a lot.
I couldn’t get Stony out of the box fast enough to show Gary what Santa had so presciently awarded me. Then Gary showed me his fresh off the Sleigh, action figure…his fighting man. And he extricated it from a footlocker that was cooler than the Marx company cardboard container that my Stony came in. And what was with the tray on top with all the cool gear?
I didn’t puke and I didn’t cry but I wanted to. In tandem. I was raised better than that and anyway, my mama woulda surely beat me for jealously crying over someone else’s Santa loot. And my people aren’t pukers. But how? How could Jesus on his birthday in concert with the fat man from the North Pole, do this to me? What the f*#%k was a G.I. Joe and how did I miss this incredible thing since it had been out for about a year and a half already? How did I  not lock in on GI Joe when memorizing the Sears Christmas catalogue? None of my buddies had one and for reasons inexplicable to this day, I’d been unaware of GI Joe. Come on. You have to see the difference...the absurdly obvious dichotomy between my Stony and Gary's GI Joe. Yep, this was the first of my many sugar-to-shit moments.
Stony with his now laughable degree of elbows-only articulation and his hideously molded into his…his damn self…uniform; standing stiltedly beside this incredibly kitted out and downright contortionally moveable—situate-able G.I. Joe, just looked—impertinent. But Gary didn’t notice my suicidal dismay or at least he didn’t seize upon it and gloat, even if he did sense my anguish.
I was precocious back then but I wasn’t a spoiled brat.  My disgust with Stony and my absolute holy-shit awe of GI Joe wasn’t grounded in just simple infantile jealousy. It was fact based. GI Joe was hand-sewn-real-uniforms and cool-as-shit-accessories-genius to Stony’s suddenly green-plastic-for every-damn-thing-but-head-and-hands-stiltedness. I kid you not; the remainder of our two-day visit is erased from my mind. I only remember the defining moment when Gary and I proudly compared our fighting men and Stony fell from grace at warp speed.
Indulge me please for some additional evidence to support my position that Stony on his best day had no bank, no game, no nothing compared to GI Joe. The Hassenfeld family of Pawtucket bet the bank, literally on the launch of GI Joe and once they committed to him, they were all-in. “A doll for boys?” was a huge concern during the early moments of GI Joe’s ideation. “Action Figure” was soon the standard jargon and it stuck…problem solved. 
And Don Levine, the Hasbro guy most credited with creating the final commercial product, got the inspiration for GI Joe’s incredible articulation courtesy of seeing an artist’s wooden model in a hobby shop store window.
Granted, Joe is an odd looking chap in the buff but it’s the only way for you non-GI Joe-ers to fully appreciate my… Why Stony was a dud: Exhibit-A.  GI Joe not only bent...he twisted—in virtually every direction. There wasn’t much of a position that you couldn’t get the chap in and prepare him for whatever martial endeavor you desired.
GI Joe…crouched unaware in a foxhole. About to be the recipient of a Black Cat firecracker or an M-80 scud bought by somebody’s daddy at the fireworks stand from South of the Border? No problem. Yet what could Stony do if caught in the same situation? Crouch? Nope. Crawl? Nah. Stand there stoically? Yep.
GI Joe…crouched on a mound of dirt, Carbine in one hand, grenade in another, pondering his next GI Joe move? Got it. I bet there ain’t a Twister-esque move requested in the Kama Sutra the old Joe couldn’t accommodate. Come to think of it, seems like I recall a naked GI Joe and one of my sister’s buff Barbies getting’ jiggy in Joe’s camo sleeping bag one time. Seems like I also recall a huge a_s whipping as a result. 
Oh, and GI Joe had a scar on his face. Man oh man...he'd seen hand-to-hand combat with a Kraut or a raucous night with Roxanne Burgess and his cheek badge showed it. Kinda made Stony's blankly monochromatic face look...blank-er. 
The best Stony could do...who now by the way, looked to me like he was in a body cast, was just freaking stand there. Or lie face-down or up in a foxhole, appearing to be catatonic or rigor mortis-ed. Oh, but he could move those damned elbows…up or down. Here, have a hat. And I'll toot the bugle. Nice.
Exhibit B…as if another one was needed—GI Joe’s accessories. Good god, man! The stuff was accurate and to-scale and made of different tensiles of plastic with various colors and textures.
And the uniforms? Cloth…I mean what else should a uniform be made of? Were they a bitch to get on and off? You bet. No pain. No gain.
“But Stony had accessories?” Yep. He sure did. Think Tupperware. Butcept monochromatic olive green. And in comparatively scant quantity and imagination. Suddenly Stony's gear was some of the clunkiest, ham-fisted stuff  I'd ever seen. Nice.
Let me wrap up this Christmas tragedy with the proverbial rest of the story. I knew better than to wail and complain about my, till laying eyes on GI Joe, best gift ever, Stony. But I reckon I didn’t have to. I think my perceptive mother sussed out the situation rather quickly and my birthday was only three weeks away. All’s well that ends well and my birthday was made sublime by the arrival of what would be the first of my many GI Joes.
I’ve said before that of all the toys I had growing up, GI Joe and the collateral stuff that accompanied him was my hands down bar none favorite. I’d say that there was probably a four year stretch when all I wanted was “GI Joe stuff” for every gift receiving occasion. I still have a few Hot Wheels and Matchbox cars from my childhood but that’s about it. All of my Joe junk is gone. If you had a brother who came along almost ten years after you, chances are that your cache of GI Joe stuff in the attic went to him. And there’s an equal chance that he destroyed all of it and your mother then threw it away. It happened to me.

Years later…many years later…after constantly and playfully giving my brother shit about destroying my GI Joe stuff, my office phone in New Jersey rings and my now twenty something year old brother tells me that he has the Christmas gift that’s gonna knock my socks off. And that’s all he was willing to allow. Keep in mind, by the time I’m in my early thirties, there isn’t much that anyone in my family can afford to  gift me that’s sock-knocking-off caliber. So I’m clueless. Till I get home on Christmas Eve and open the gift from my brother. Ebullient is an understatement.
I rarely shine like this anymore. And if this photo had audio you'd hear about a dozen people laughing and regaling with me. I think I burned a zillion calories chortling and redundantly saying "oh man!" and hugging and kissing my little brother for giving me these talismans of what to this day; I define as an idyllic, safe, playful and imaginative childhood. My mother and sister were equally amused. There’s no disagreement or ambiguity in my clan regarding just how robustly and in-full I lived my early years.
Courtesy of www.shorpy.com/node/3723
So Merry Christmas. Literally this morning, from my childhood bedroom where many years ago I billeted GI Joe and his cohorts after court-martialling Stony for inarticulate, monochromatically extruded plastic-esque conduct. Unbecoming.

Onward. Pee Dee Style.
ADG II

Shoes in 1986: THE Pair that Got Away

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Our boy Yankee Whiskey over at his blog, wrote a great little tongue in cheek predictive regarding what some of his blogger friends would be writing about in 2013. Slip over there and read it if you haven’t‘cause it’s really funny. In the spirit of gratitude and whateverishness for being included in his story, I decided to go ahead and write the story that he predicted I would.

But before you read my story, here’s what he speculated that I’d be sharing with y’all in 2013…“Maxminimus -The doting father with a vast shoe collection will post about the pair of shoes that got away on a missed opportunity in 1986 and he'll somehow have photos of them.  In the post, he'll use "patina" and "wallup" in a single sentence and will combine "ain't no telling" into "aintnotellin'".  In the background of a photo for another post, readers will be able to clearly see a notebook page on which ADG has repeatedly doodled "Mrs. A.D.Flusser" in pink and purple ink.”

Shoes in 1986: THE Pair that Got Away
Shoes. _itches and shoes. Most of my non-LFG angst and need for medication emanates from one or the tother.  And this pair of shoes that in 1986 slipped through my ecstatical fingers…there aintnotellin what they’d a cost at re-damn-tail. It's beside the point now. But I can tell you this. If I’d a been luckier in ’86 and got ‘em—knowing how I wear (and wear-out) the you-know-what out of things that I’m crazy about—Roxanne Burgess, bless her soul and my first pair of LL Bean Camp Mocs, bless their soles, come to mind—they’d by now have a patinated wallup of patina on ‘em that would precede themselves—patina wallup-wise. I’m not sure how exactly that would work, the prescient precedence of preceding patina before the shoe and the wearer show up, but I’m confident of it happening. Ever so.
These shoes I'm a talkin' about. Powerful they were. Palpably so. Soon as I rounded the corner at Syms in Charlotte, North Carolina and saw ‘em I palpated my damn-self just to be sure that I wasn’t dreaming. Corfam? Could it really be Corfam? In ’86? I mean really. Stupid but oh so meaningful to me…Corfam. I’d just assumed that by ’86, this synthetic, hot rolled extrusion of a material that created ambulatory, non-breathing sweatbox-saunas for mens’ feets had been relegated. Relegated to law enforcement people shoes and high school ROTC geek dress uniform shoes for when the ROTC (Rotten Oranges Tomatoes Carrots (ha! lol!))  had to wear their all-synthetic head to damn toe, Gomer Pyle getup once ta week to school. Shut up. But there they were. My Corfam saddle oxfords from 1966.
After a finished palpating myself; (I figger, but really, amidst nirvana, who really knows? That ten minutes of tactile self-checking had transpired. Coulda been a hour) I began to palpate the shoes…mainliest reason was to double-double check that they won’t just a fig of my imagination…these…the identical to the ones I had for Sunday school in 1966. A pair just sitting there in my now ’86 grown up at least physically, exact man-size of 8-D. Eight-Delta in Corfam in Eighty Six. But why would I want a pair of synthetic a_s shoes that after five minutes on your feet had you standing in two separate little fish ponds of your own salty foot sweat? Surely I’d a moved on, not yet to the absurdity of Cleverley caliber pedal boondoggles but please…to a more natural, breathable and marginally less collegiate and in ’86, lower vamped, sleek shoe.
That’s not the point. (And chances are that my twisty-turny story telling ass won’t get to the point for at least another thousand words) It made no difference. I had to have ‘em. They harkened (that’s fancy for “took”) me back to 1966. The year of all things plastic and synthetically extruded...then shaped into a consumer product. This harken-me-back phenomenon, not found in all, but a whole lot of my material things, was in ’86 and is today—huge, huge, huge, huge, huge for me. Think Stony. Surely I wouldn't really wear them but one thing was for damn sure on that fateful day at Syms in Charlotte, North Carolina. I would be leaving that store with those shoes…those anti-artisanal icons of ’66 when my little sweaty feets wore their identical counterparts.
The ’66 model Corfam shoes…like I already said…were my church shoes. I remember wearing them…sitting in “big church” with my mama and sister, drawing army tanks and rockets on a Lottie Moon offering envelope with one of those two little eraserless pencil that strode like tandem cowboy six guns on each side of the offering envelope holder thang on the back of the pew in front of us. All the while Dr. Friar preached to screamed at us from the pulpit, spittle flecked admonitions about the evils of liquor and women and money. Butcept in a much smaller size of course. The preacher screams weren’t smaller size...even though I'd tuned that sh_t out...I had tanks to draw. Nor was Dr. Friar. He was a big ole corpulent glutton. But both the shoes and the pencil...they were small. Same kinda pencil…now that I think on pencils for a moment...that the golf course people give you with your scorecard before you begin a round of golf. And my daddy wasn't at church with us. Something about liquor and women and money kept him from being there with us regular. It still hurts. 
But it was not to be. Alas. About the time I probably (I say probably because I was back in that trance-state of nirvana) had been palpating my 8-D Corfam finds…one in each hand…for maybe somewhere in the general vicinity of give or take a little here and there but really probably when all is said and done…close to thirty-five minutes, a floor manager who'd been rearranging mannequins approached me. Also, I’m sure I was crying a little bit. These were not tears of maudlin remembrance of my Stony year (’66 for those of you who ain’t keepin’ up) or tears akin to the ones that I shed over my daughter. You know, the kid I talk about under the guise of writing socks and shoes stories but turn it into some kinda "ain't nobody else ever been divorced with an only child" therapy session. Shut up. These tears were different.
Oh no, these were tears of joy. Rather like reunion tears…tears identical to the ones that those family members were shedding as they ran across the tarmac to hug for the first time in seven years, their Vietnam POW daddy who’d been released after we won that war. You’ve seen the pitchers.  Butcept for me it had been twenty-one years (86-66=21 for those of you who ain’t keepin’ up or who hail from either of the Carolinas) that my Corfam daddy had been MIA or POW-ed (Prisoner of War…notPOW like Batman fistfights) somewhere in a Hanoi Hilton of an obviously-not-with-my-ass parallel universe.
I also distinctly recall  that that Alicia Bridges song I Love the Nightlife was playing on the Syms background music system. Well not background per damn se but more like from the ceiling. And to this day I find that song to be a sweet, yet fruit-forward, not too jaunty but let’s say…assertive…declaration…no, almost admonition to please, please…just for now…let’s not talk love…let’s just have fun…for tonight. Little did I know that Alicia’s lyrics would essentially become my post-divorce dating strategy for at least the first five years out of the Hanoi Marital Hilton. Then I became "Mr. Commitment". Here…read a sample of the Nightlife lyrics and see if you don’t agree with me. “Please don't talk about love tonight…Please don't talk about sweet love…Please don't talk about being true…And all the trouble we've been through.” See. Tole you. Or you can just listen to the whole song. I’d recommend, if indeed this is as important to you as it is me and you have the time, that you do both.  But really, click on the thing above and really, I mean really, really, really, hear and see firsthand what I'm talking at. Really.
There are three things that South Carolina Rednecks love to do. Frig, Fight and Fast Dance. Butcept you’ve never seen a worse dancer than me when trying to do that freestyle disco type dancing. I’m a reasonably nuanced and adept shagger—both kinds—but I was never much interested in that disco dance free-form stuff. But chances are that standing in Syms with a Corfam shoe mid-fondle in each hand, my tear stained smiling face tilted skyward towards the source of Ms. Bridges’ melody, I was probably hittin’ a shuffle-groove with mild syncopated hip thrusts that woulda made Denny Terrio proud. 
Everybody always wonders what happened to Denny. Are you kiddin’ me? Don't you worry for a minute about what happened to Denny. No offense but chances are Denny's doin' better than you. Be happy for him. Denny went on to be a billionaire restaurateur fella with a different business model than Chick-fil-A but similar in haterness. Denny had it in for the darkies. Chick-fil-A went after the limp wristed boys and flannel shirt wearing, Subaru driving gals.
Now consider all of this through the eyes of that Syms floor manager now standing beside me tapping on my right shoulder when I came back up from just one of my surely abundant syncopated I Love the Nightlife, disco shoulder dips. These are the kinds of customer interactions for which no Syms manager training program role-play prepares these name badge wearing, proud of their power to supervise, Supervisors. Looking back on all of this, I kinda feel sorry for the feller. I think it was a feller. Should he call an ambulance in the spirit of kindness or the Mecklenburg County S.W.A.T. team? (Special Weaponsand Tactics for those of you who ain’t keepin’ up) Let me just end this story by letting you know that said floor manager and some Paul Blart Mall Cop kinda rent-an-officer guy put a GI Joe with the Kung Fu grip on me and tossed me into public. Public being…me and the anywhere but in that store, universe. Universe being…till I got my wits about me and picked the parking lot gravel out of the palms of my hands, the Syms parking lot. Oh, and I didn’t have the shoes.
I walked back to the Syms entrance to do three thangs. Apologize; buy them shoes…and see if I could hear that Alicia Bridges song one more time. Yes, the song is that good. If their music was some kinda piped-in playlist from a retail store music service satellite station in Blenheim, South Carolina, of course I couldn’t expect to hear it again. Idiots. However, if they did their own party-mix tape for the store, I figured the request, especially amidst spending money in their joint, might be reasonable. Where you might ask, did I get the gumption to go back for another round of all this? I don't know. But what I do know is that the door was locked. Alas. (I wasn’t using the word “alas” in ’86 but…alas)
So I told my then girlfriend the story and begged, begged, begged her to go and get them for me but she refused. Not because she was particularly off-put by the obvious perverse nature of my attachment to the shoes…surely there was reason to be—but because she was still mad at me from the other night. We were having cocktails at her apartment and I looked up from drawing little army tanks and rockets on a Baptist church Lottie Moon offering envelope with a little eraserless pencil and gleefully complimented her breasts. Oh my good lord they were nice and we had been dating long enough for me to give body part specific compliments. Butcept I referred to them as hooters. I meant what I said about my admiration of them regardless of whether or not she thought what I called them was pejorative  Or even offensive. Are you kidding me? I worshiped them. Both of them. They were almost identical...not that two of anything is ever really identical including the tandem eraserless pencils on the back of the church pew. And women generally say that one of their you know whats is the different one. So I meant the compliment with sublime respect but when you refer to a woman’s hangers as hooters, I’m a tell you firsthand, a buttload of intent gets lost in translation. No shoes. No girlfriend. Alas.
This story was important to me second only to the one I wrote about my drunk absent daddy. So like that one, this is the onliest one I’ve ever tried to write by hand and copy edit before typing it and putting it on my blogthang. But the emotion bought on by said handwritten Corfam recollections, proved to be too much for me so I just resorted to typing. Thanks for letting me unburden myself.

Onward. Towards 2013. Corfamless but armed with a lot a Lottie Moon offering envelopes and little eraserless pencils.

ADG Two

Happy New Year

Senior Prom 1973

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My mother hosted an after-prom breakfast for my sister and her friends. I remember it. I also remember wondering what the big freakin’ deal was about the prom. It was 1973. I wasn’t quite dialed into the prom thing just yet. And when I did become prom age, my peeps and I weren't jonesing for breakfast afterwards. Mainly because our dates were puking Sloe Gin and thinking that they were bleeding internally. 
These gals were high school juniors and their fellas were seniors. All three of the girls had been friends since elementary school and remain so today. Everyone in the photo went to different colleges and after the one-year younger girls graduated, three weddings soon occurred  Yep, all three married their high school sweethearts. And my mom’s living room décor and the revelers’ prom outfits just scream…1973.
This is my sister and my future brother-in-law. They'd already been dating for almost two years and he was the older brother I never had.He drove a ’69 Camaro with Cragar mags and he taught me how to drink three beers real fast when we would go run errands for my mom...in his Camaro. Of course he knew who sold beers to sixteen year old guys. He knew everything. He was cool as shit. When he hit college and became a KA, his button down shirts and khakis were so heavily starched that I often thought he was in a body cast.Years later he left my pregnant sister and their two toddlers for a slightly younger woman, still tight bodied and sans babies. And a decade later he called my sister, crying. Seems that the tight bodied woman left him for a slightly younger man, still tight bodied and sans babies.
This twin-set of lovebirds remain married today. I saw one of these guys in a meat and three local lunch joint when I was home last week. He looked like shit. Really.
Sometime around a decade after the prom photo was taken, my mom did some early 1980’sliving room remodelling  Different curtains and an anything but drastic change in wall color. The sofa was recovered and different color matting shrouded the framed engravings. This is what it looks like today. I’ve smooched on this sofa in both its current but yet again outdated sheathing as well as the original, pre-1983 version. And my ten years younger brother swears he doesn’trecall it. “It” being when he walked in on me and my first girlfriend while we were doing something we ought ’n.

Onward.Looking for something I ought ‘n.

ADG II

Trad-Ivy Tuesday: Adolescent Trad or…How to Dress a Son

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LFG’s middle school graduation ceremony—year before last—I’m there as always. Like I’ve said a thousand times before…I’m not looking for a fathering merit badge or medal, I’m just trying to do everything that my dad didn’t. And the bar comparatively is really, really low. I don’t remember my dad ever showing up for anything.

Society has lowered or allowed the bar to be lowered on scores of fundamental things that make our world slightly less pleasant. General courtesies or the evaporation of them represent the canary in the coalmine of bar lowering, societal sloppiness. I’m talking about genuine, sincere behaviors that demonstrate respect for ourselves and one another. Not obsequious courtesies like the ones poured on so condescendingly by Southern Junior Leaguers.

Courtesy and good deportment should be gender, race, and age independent…with the exception of adults needing to show our younger charges how it’s done. I’ve struggled to reconcile LFG’s deserved desire for independence against my deeply encoded, rote behavior of opening and closing her car door as well as allowing her to enter buildings before me, courtesy of, again, my door-holding-open Pavlovian damn self. The twelve year old lens through which she sees my efforts conveys hovering daddy as opposed to chivalrous gentleman. Thank goodness that we’ve yet to have the inevitable battles regarding what she wears. Yes, I know it’s coming.

And what we wear counts. I paraphrase G. Bruce Boyer loosely when I say that it’s silly to think that what we wear doesn’t convey things about us and what we believe and how we are likely to behave. Oh lordy, that’s an unfair broad-brushstroke I know. But on balance, I’ve written about not judging books by their covers where I’ve admitted that those nose bolts and those ear lobe expander things that kids install in incrementally larger diameters to make even larger and more ghastly lobe holes kinda scare me. But I also said that I will always give everyone till proven otherwise, the benefit of the doubt regarding their character and integrity, even if their sartorial and body adornment choices scare the dooky out of me. Surely this is two-way traffic as well. Trust me. I’ve met plenty of well groomed, button downed, ultra-traditional…assholes.

“What you are hovers above and thunders so—that I can’t hear what you say to the contrary” rather sums up the deportment and courtesy thing for me. I’d just amend it a bit to read “…what you say and what you’re wearing…” If you’re a turd, it makes no difference if you’re Flusser or Pierced Goth…head to damn toe.
Perhaps I shouldn’t have been so gobsmacked over this kid. When I was his age all kids were scrubbed and swathed appropriately for momentous occasions like chorus productions, awards functions, and church. But this kid knocks it out of the park on all fronts! I don’t know his parents but I’d like to. I wanna know who gives this kid his instruction. Not just because he’s so neat and well put together but because there are jaunty bits of personal style fuzziness already manifesting.
Gingham button down and thick, chunky rep stripes. BAM!
Well cut flat-front khakis that preclude this young man from looking like a Thom Browne acolyte. Well done mom and dad.
And of course—loafers…the Meryl Streep of shoes. They thrive in any role…especially when the wearer is ten years old. And socks that offer just a bit of baby fuzziness courtesy of a piccolo argyle splash.
I’ll say it again. Well done young man and well done mom and dad. I’d a been impressed if the bar was still as high as it used to be and where it shoulda remained. 
But I was more impressed and smitten by this gal, the young lady sitting a few rows behind him.

Onward. On the road.
ADG II

This is a Blazer

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Rather staid I know. The options for fuzziness and the latitude for swank are for good reasons, limited in the blazer department. But this one awaits my first try-on.
And of course this is a blazer too. My eleven year old absolutely worn to almost shreds, three-open patch Flusser standard. This remains far and away, my favorite way to model a jacket. Three-open patch pockets…3/2 roll…peak lapels…double vented. But the try-on newbie in the first photo is a departure. Stay tuned for the story and the differences in cut, styling, color shade and…whatever.

Actually, this entire little ditty was code to say that I flat-out don’t have the time or the mental disc space to write anything voluminous these days. Topics and experiences abound but it’ll all have to wait till next week.

Onward…still in safe harbor atop Nob Hill… before heading back for one more round of my juju in Las Vegas.

Till later…ADG II

Ode to Toad...dans Velours Côtelé

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Blame this on Toad. He made me do it. Not directly mind you...for he knows nothing about this fuzztacious corduroy shawl collared thang. Leastways not till he stumbles upon this expose'. But it's the kind of thing he'd wanna do. Not stumble. But contrive something this...shall we say...experimental. And Velours Côtelé? Hell, I knew him. Firsthand. Sure as I'm writing this. He drove one of the only two taxis in Florence, S.C. for Moe the Rooster Taxi Service in the late sixties through the early seventies. Used to drive my daddy around when he'd had too much to drink. Which was always. Both of 'em. Mr. Côtelé and daddy. Seems like Velours drove a Deuce and a Quarter with special fabric for the headliner. My daddy wouldn't a much been all that for this jacket but Velours would been all over it. Butcept maybe in purple.
Surely it's a boondoggle and the maker of such things capricious isn't on Savile Row nor is it one of my Gotham Made-to-Measurers. I wouldn't tie-up too much dough in a rig like this and I won't get a sense of how it fits till this Thursday morning. Looks half-decent on the suit form though. Stay damn tuned.
"The Toad." Yep. That's what we'll name this model. Care to the wind it is. Just like my good buddy Toad. But he does care about the things worth caring about. Like friendships and family and little girls. You should read the nice letter that he sent LFG along with his Christmas gift to her. It's in the forever file. He applied for an Unclehood and I advised Princess LFG to oblige him.
Crazy ain't it? This jacket. I considered cloth covered buttons and still might go that route. Bam. Shut the...
Black Tie? Perhaps. In the comfort of a private party. Like the delightful one that the Elegantologist hosted in Richmond this past New Years Eve. I hope I get invited again next year. I didn't spill nothin'. Drank an assload...but didn't spill nary a drop. I'll more than likely wear this with jeans and Red Wings. And maybe still...black tie.
So here's to Toad. And to corduroy and other occasional fabrics and friends and parties and shawl collars where they ought not be. And Princesses...especially my LFG...and to...love.

Onward. Not travelling.

ADG II


Tadich Ethic—Part One

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As the DC area decides this morning whether or not to delay or cancel the various events and happenings that will impact my LFG chauffeuring duties today, I’ve found a moment to finish a story—one that I began almost one year ago. While I’m pleased to pick up the ball on this blog story, I hope that things won’t be delayed or cancelled today. I’d really like to see my child.
I began a story last year about my very last minute speaking engagement in San Francisco and for some reason, it just fell aside. As I now gather enough fodder to reflect on last week’s slightly less impromptu but still last minute San Francisco reprieve, it’s easy to dovetail the year-old draft story herein. The year-old stuff and the Tadich Ethicmeaning will appear tomorrow.
I think it was Longwing who commented or asked over at my tumblr about how could/would  I be at the Mirage in Las Vegas the first of last week…then San Francisco mid-week and back at the Las Vegas MGM last Friday. Well here’s the deal. I did a session last Tuesday at the Mirage. Another business unit within the same company asked me to do a session to close out their week-long meeting on Friday. The client company is so large that they essentially filled three different hotels in Las Vegas. It made no sense to return home Tuesday evening and return to Las Vegas on Thursday for my Friday MGM gig.
My Las Vegas loathing is well documented. There exists no place on earth I’ve experienced thus far that elicits in me the same level of revulsion. Las Vegas renders me repulsed to the point of physical and psychological discombobulation. Wayne Newton rather sums it up for me. And I rolled in there Monday before last amidst a wobbly recovery from a 36 hour tummy bug to boot. I decided that there was no way I could survive the Wednesday and Thursday downtime between talks by just hanging out in Las Vegas and I was in no mood to rent a car and do some kinda Hoover damn Dam sortie or similar. 
So I contacted clients in Los Angeles and the Bay Area and decided I’d decamp to one or the other, based on what client; first come-first served, responded. I’d simply create a business but mostly recreational reason to be in another city. And I was delighted that the first ping-back originated in Baghdad by the Bay. Feeling mildly knocked around after my full-on session in Las Vegas, I was still more than ready to knock around San Francisco.
And the Fairmont atop Nob Hill along with The Mark offered me rooms at a buck-fifty a night. So the Fairmont it would be. I don’t think I can describe the efficacy…the cleansing salve of San Francisco’s crisp-blue skied winter air as I walked out front of the Fairmont on Wednesday morning. My two days in San Francisco were bliss. Cable cars may be touristy but I rode ‘em with glee.
And I liked standing at the corner of  California street on Wednesday evening after dinner at the University Club…when things were quieter…and you could hear the hiss of the cables running just under the street's surface.
The sartorial rounds were brief. There isn’t much to see in San Francisco clothing wise, that a clotheshorse like me hasn’t or doesn’t see in other cities. I will make it a point to get over to Union Made the next time I’m there. Tasty, eclectic, high quality goods for a younger crowd perhaps. But their website alone is enticing enough for me to wanna have a look-see in situ. Alas, I did go to Cable Car Clothiers' new, smaller digs. Let me just say that unless there’s a dramatic reimagining of what CCC was…is…aspires to be—they won’t be—for much longer.
Certainly my bucket hat and wool challis bowtie purchase won’t keep ‘em afloat.
I held no hope that these framed Vanity Fair prints of Bret Harte and Rider Haggard, along with their personal letters, would remain available at Brick Row Booksellers in that building on Geary Street where art dealers and rare booksellers have long since been ensconced. I’m generally not so lucky but alas they were there and I decided to not pass on them again. Rare book dealers and antiquarian print purveyors are a quirky lot. And trust me—I know quirk when I’m amidst it…having learned to embrace my own idiosyncrasies. Or as one of my dinner mates from the University Club on Wednesday evening declared regarding the proclivities of his high end, persnickety clientele… “I’ve made peace with crazy.” Now don’t get me wrong. None of the dealers in the 49 Geary Street building are crazy—just a bit—and delightfully so—quirky. And quirky played to my favor in that for some juju-esque reason, both of the framed images cost me less than what one of them was quoted to me a year ago. And God knows I need some framed caricatures.
With a bit of unexpected extra time on Thursday I ventured over to North Beach and traipsed the mild underbelly of a part of San Francisco that gives me more reason to love the entire city. Unlike the frenetically loud, neonelectrified smarm of Las Vegas, San Francisco’s smarm is patinated. I just wish that I’d a been there when the El Matador was still serving hooch and jazz and hosting the smart set from all over the world when they rolled in to San Francisco. The thirty something year old Barnaby Conrad was told to “do something with the money” that came pouring in after his novel Matador took off…so “I opened a bar.” 
And boy did he “open a bar”. The El Matador hosted not only the smart set but also some pretty good jazz musicians during its heyday. It seems that North Beach was a jazz destination“…in 1963 the jazz scene moved on. North Beach, with its reputation as a louche entertainment enclave, emerged as the San Francisco jazz epicenter and reigned as such in the fifties, sixties and even into the seventies…”
Here with Conrad at the El Matador is Tyrone Power who starred in Blood and Sand…as a Matador. And I suppose that Power’s role in The Sun Also Rises gave these two imbibers a bit more conversational fodder.
Caen and Conrad. Good clean fun fronting the El Matador.
I tracked down the old El Matador location. It’s vacant and man-oh-man if the walls therein could talk. Wanna re-open it or something similar? “Maxminimus” Yep. That’s what we’ll call it. And I’ll open it—from the proceeds of my first novel.
Look at the abandoned El Matador and ponder what once rounded that corner… “Part saloon, part salon, Barnaby Conrad's El Matador was nestled in the heart of San Francisco's cabaret and nightlife district. There, within the space of a few blocks of North Beach's Barbary Coast, one could catch Johnny Mathis singing at Ann's 440 Club, cross the street to the Swiss American Hotel where Lenny Bruce once thought he was a bird and attempted to fly out of a second-story window, and walk a couple of blocks to the Hungry i to check out newcomers like Mike Nichols and Elaine May, Woody Allen, Bill Cosby, Barbra Streisand, and the Smothers Brothers. Still, despite the accumulation of dozens of bars, restaurants, and night spots, the area lacked "a truly chic and comfortable (club), a place where attractive and interesting people could congregate over a martini". Conrad's El Matador stylishly filled the void. On any given night, one might find Noel Coward, Marilyn Monroe, Truman Capote, Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner, or Tyrone Power in the club, or hear Duke Ellington, Art Tatum, Eva Gabor, George Shearing, or Andre Previn take over the piano.” 

What will be longed for in another fifty years? Large Escalades pulling up in front of some loud-ass club…Cristal drenched bling-blingers and an upskirt shot courtesy of an iPhone? Where are the El Matadors today?
Barnaby Conrad Jr. has lived one hell of a life and I’m gonna delve into it a bit more when his two memoirs arrive.
Here’s a little glimpse… “At nineteen Barnaby Conrad vaulted into a Mexican arena and waved his Brooks Brothers raincoat at an enraged bull. At twenty-one he escalated from code clerk to vice-consul in twenty-four hours and was sent to Spain where he became El Nino de California (The California Kid) of the bull fights. At twenty-five he was selling books on the subject.”
  And of course there’s Carol Doda and the Condor amidst City Lights book store and the Beats. I’ve yet to stand at the corner of Haight and Ashbury and haven’t made erudite my Hippie studies but is there truth that the Beats felt like their call to action was more worthy than the Hippies?
And was Doda’s topless-bottomlessness plaque worthy?
I can tell you unequivocally that my plein air solo dining before heading to the airport and back to the Las Vegas smarm was plaque worthy. Stay tuned for round two of my San Francisco sortie.

Onward. Having just learned that all is open for business in DC…now I’m gonna go fetch my young’un.

ADG II

Bellied Lapels

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The artisanship herein is epic. But I don't like bellied lapels. And I don't have time to write blog stories. But when I do, I'll take up the issue.

Stasis.

ADG II

J. Press York Street

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From Gentleman's Quarterly
So a reader emails me and asks my opinion about the J. Press-Ovadia collaboration called York Street. I had no clue what he was talking about. After snooping about a bit and landing hereI now have an opinion...

The J. Press York Street conflagration smacks of Charlton Heston in the last year of his life...A Stalwart Alpha Legend cum Rodeo Clown. Sad. Really.

Onward. Stalwarts and all.
ADG II

Black Fleece Summer 2013

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Gentlemanmac, a very pertinent reader left a snarky message for me over at my tumblr. Here it is…
“Are you ever gonna change that stupid York Street picture that's been up for two weeks? At least put up something cool, like a rottweiler, while you're not posting stuff.”
Spot-on old sport. I couldn’t agree with you more. I don’t have time at present to read or write blogs. So as a placeholder and an alternative to my J. Press York Street visual fiasco that so offended a reader, feast your eyes on the Brethren’s Black Fleece offerings for warm weather ’13.
Surely this Goat Rodeo Forrest Gump Bobo sh_t is much more soothing, no?
Oh, and before one of you emails me and gives me the standard… “Yeah, those ensembles do look rather silly but several of the individual pieces would look great as a separate entity, not all bound up in a gaggle of other Black Fleece stuff.” Ok, here’s the deal. If you reallybelieve that; then let me buy you these teabagger britches. We’ll all be waiting to see a picture of you sportin’ em.

Tell Forrest I said hey.

Shut Up; then…Onward.

ADG II

Help Is On The Way

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Some of y'all know that my paying job involves strategy work in the biotech/pharma/medical device/diagnostics space. I thought that I'd mix business and pleasure by sharing with you one of the latest direct to consumer (DTC) campaigns that I created.
Onward. All ironic and stuff.

ADG II

The Tadich Ethic Redux

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It was several weeks ago that I promised part two of my San Francisco sortie. I believe my promise was… “The next day.” Its dilatory arrival speaks to the paucity of time that I have these days to devote to telling stories. And remember, the core of this twaddle was written as a second installment from my trip to Baghdad by the Bay about a year ago. So the one year old stuff is italicized and my current commentary is; well, not. I'll make my current, co-mingled comments parenthetical as well. Parenthetical...I've always wanted to use that word. Shut up.
My recent San Francisco trip was last minute—so quickly planned that there was no room for thought about staying over or going early to enjoy myself personally. I had to get back east and so my San Francisco experience was limited to the city itself and experienced in little pockets of free time that I had over two days between meetings that I sat in on and the day that I actually spoke. And I loved every little flurry of available time that I had to run out and sample a bit of this unique city… a city that I’d had only a small taste of previously. I think I mentioned in my other San Francisco post that for whatever reason; unlike every other major city in the States and quite a few in Europe, my San Francisco experiences to date have been identical to this last one. Fly in…head to a large hotel downtown…attend a meeting and fly home. With of course, some client arranged dinner at a nice restaurant. Oh, and I did have a drink one time at the Top of the Mark.
One of my readers shared this in an email to me after reading my Cable Car Clothiers post… “L_(his wife) and I visited Cable Car Clothiers on a Saturday morning when we were last in San Francisco two summers ago.  Monument to cultural preservation that it is (and British at that), CCC with its over-stuffed woolly windows was downright other-worldly on the August weekend morning when we swung by.  Still, it makes some sense in the context of a city that prizes its past (the Tadich Ethic, or so I think of it) better than any this side of London.”
I’m digging the comment on many levels but mostly because I like history and I love the back story and I want to know about places and things. And it’s also no secret that I grieve the passing of things that I think shouldn't go away. My blog is peppered with the maudlin-mawkish twaddle of lament for things no longer valued or relevant or…just flat-out not here anymore. But I try not live in the past and I incite change for a living. I’m not scared to move forward but there are things I regret that we don’t take with us. (I lied last year when I wrote that—leastways I think I did—about not being scared to move forward. Perhaps I have a pathological attachment to things past...a low-grade addiction to patina. Maybe even an attachment to my idea of how things were but weren’t, ever, really. Contrived Maudlinazation? I’ll have to check the new DSM-IV-TR to see if it’s designated. Am I pining for shit that perhaps never even existed? Palestine?)
(Maybe I am reluctant to move forward. Thursday January 24th was my birthday. It was also the tenth anniversary of the first moving company arriving at my marital home to whisk away LFG and her mom to their new home in Old Town. I remember opening my sleepy and not well rested eyes that birthday morning—greeted by a still almost bald headed two year old little LFG…standing bedside watching me sleep. She grinned sheepishly and handed me…a cupcake. When I returned that early evening from my agreed upon daylong exile to the office; the house was empty save my earthly goods that would be picked up the next day. I’ve moved somewhere obviously since then. Maybe all of it’s been more lateral than forward.)
But how old is San Francisco? I mean…the place pretty much burned to the ground in 1906. I don’t even know what the "recently old" San Francisco was like other than what I read courtesy of Barnaby Conrad, Lucius Beebe, Herb Caen and of course, if you wanna define old in a slightly older context, Jack London and John Steinbeck come to mind. Oh, and I enjoyed Armistead Maupin’s less-old… Tales of the City. But Tadich I suppose, is a wee-bit of old former San Francisco and I’m glad LPC suggested that amidst the serendipity of our schedules, we meet up there for lunch. No surprise—I loved it. I’d say Tadich is the culinary peer to its sartorial cousin, Cable Car Clothiers.
And it is indeed a small world--even in San Francisco. I’m standing out front of Tadich and I notice a guy, probably close to seventy years old, in a UNC baseball cap. He was waiting for his buddy to show for lunch. I asked what his connection to North Carolina was, letting him know that I was from South Carolina. And out came one of those syrupy eastern North Carolina accents that can only be made elegant by people of his generation. He’s been in San Francisco for over thirty years and now retired, he and his wife enjoy going back to North Carolina to visit friends and family but he never intends to leave his now, City by the Bay.
And if we’d talked for another ten minutes, we’d have known people. We didn’t argue over the differences between our state’s barbecue or the schools... Carolina(s) or whether or not the Shag—our tribal dance—originated in his or my Carolina. He admitted that as a teenager and a student at Chapel Hill, Ocean Drive Beach South Carolina was his destination. Why? He came to Ocean Drive to dance…to shag. And I told him that I spent summers in an old wood frame beach house just a few blocks down from The Pad. And then the proverbial question popped…"Who was your daddy?” Here I am in San Francisco and by happenstance, an eastern North Carolina accent is carrying me back to North Myrtle Beach and I’m twelve and sitting on the screened porch of our beach house, mildly sunburned and tasting salt in the air. All of this, standing in front of Tadich. Nice.
So folks, with the exception of a few strands of non-italicized filler midstream, you’ve now read what’s been sitting in a folder on my laptop for a year. I’ve got another dozen half-baked, unfinished piles somewhere on my computer. Maybe someday soon I’ll dust ‘em off and throw ‘em at you. Oh, and after I traipsed recently with the ghosts of Conrad and Caen and Doda, I ordered and devoured both of Barnaby Conrad's memoirs.
It's an understatement to say that this man has lived a life in full. If you suffer from even the vaguest symptoms of Contrived Maudlinazation, you'll love reading these two anecdotathons. 

Onward. Awaiting the emergence of one LFG…a gal who once again made her parents proud with all A’s on her second academic reporting period. I remain however, on academic probation.

ADG 2

Well Edited Cadence: My Take on G. Bruce Boyer

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Bobby Short had it I think. His friend and one of my fuzzy mentors, Richard Merkin did not. I’m glad to know this because it tells me that the appropriately modulated may still befriend the reckless. The fuzzy flâneurs and in my case hopefully; the peacock poseurs may still seek succor from the poised.
Seems to me that Tony Biddle had this well edited cadence too. So I’ll define this modulated je ne sais quoi with the hat-trick backdrop of Boyer, Biddle and Short in mind. “Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should." Did my mama first say that to me? Hell, I don’t know. But what I do know is that all three of my subjects convey(ed) an enviable level of sartorial elegance while at the same time avoiding foppery that says “look at me, look at me.” They woulda all been failures in Dallas.
Biddle had the name and his wife had the money so there really wasn’t anything getting in the way of him warehousing a wardrobe that was tenfold larger than his ever was. Where did I read it? Gentry? Flair? I’m too lazy to go look it up but Biddle at least in my opinion, had a surprisingly well-edited, mathematically lean wardrobe.
Bobby Short wore the same thematic get-ups during almost all of his public life. Dinner clothes when tickling the ivories at the Carlyle and for the most part, dark suits and solid color ties otherwise. Short was always, always impeccably turned out in well-made clothes emanating from a rigorously edited closet. I must admit straightaway that the genetic coding required to enable this behavior was out of stock when my country-ass came along.
Photo Copyright: Rose Callahan
This brings us now to my friend G. Bruce Boyer. Son of what I’ll call the Bethlehem-Allentown fringe. Close enough to know about John O’Hara’s Pottstowncoal mining realities but fortunate enough to have options that precluded having to go work in them. I’ve vague knowledge of the area, having visited many times my former wife’s aunt at the Good Shepherd home in Allentown and when I recall it, I feel good things. She was a remarkable woman with cerebral palsy to the degree that her hands shimmied uncontrollably. None the less, we would get a grammatically precise, well edited, superbly cadenced, typed on an old typewriter, letter from her about once a month. Must be something pragmatic and practical about the area that creates economy and rigor.
Photo: Christian Chensvold--Ivy Style
Economy and Rigor. My motivation for writing this story came from Boyer’s navy wool jacket. Not a shiny brass-buttoned navy blazer and not a jaunty navy suit. Hell, the color may not even be true navy. Whatever. All I know is that my history says it’s probably the last thing I’d bespeak, yet now I want one. I met up with Boyer in NYC recently and was taken by the simplicity his outfit. This double breasted blue jacket girded a well edited paucity of color, texture and pattern. I wish I’d taken a photo of Boyer’s rig when we were together but it’s essentially identical to this one that Christian Chensvold captured over at Ivy Style. Slight difference was that G-the-Bruce had on a navy and silver club tie when he and I sloshed through a rainy Gotham.
What I’m trying to say is that Boyer’s editorial rigor isn’t confined to his stellar writing. The man has sprezzaturated sensibility that complements his noteworthy sartorial acumen. I see myself as sartorially NASCAR to Boyer’s RallyeMonte Carlo. His is amiable precision; sprightly cadenced against my all-out go fast-turn left, fully floored impertinence. Hyperbole? Of course, who the hell do you think’s writing this shit?
I believe any sartorial library to be incomplete without Boyer’s book, Elegance. The current world of sound bite attention spans, twitter twits and tumblr turds doesn’t encourage mindfulness. And Boyer’s is a mindful book. Seems that today we’d rather look at picture books than process well written assertions that transcend one hundred and forty characters. Yet Elegance, with its paucity of illustration is chock full of images if you’ll just let Boyer’s words take your mind where it should go. Alan Gurganus said that “adverbs are the MSG of writing.” I’ll add that photographs then, are MSGs with V-8 engines and dual exhausts and I can’t imagine allowing my blog stories to stand alone without the augment of adverbs and photographs. Perhaps Elegance isn't always top of mind when considering sartorial references due to the explosion of clothing picture books shortly after its publication. But it should be.

Here’s Boyer from Elegance...positing on the loafer. "The history of the loafer, it seems to me, takes issue both with the opinion that decent standards of dress are melting like butter and the world is going to hell in a hand-basket and with the theory, on the other hand, that we are entering a new age of formalism. What it does simply indicate is that our material lives are potentially more comfortable than were our grandparents', and that proprieties are perhaps a bit more flexible and subtle than our Edwardian ancestors'." 

And on bleeding madras..."The appearance of a madras shirt new was not an exactly reliable indication of what it would look like after two or three launderings. Far from being a liability, however, this effect was highly prized and considered a unique and novel clothing experience, and in fact the beauty of "bleeding madras" was seen to lie in the the weathered appearance that accrued from this blending property of the cloth. In the halcyon 1950's, no summer attire branded one more arriviste than a bright madras shirt and spotless white buckskin shoes. They both wanted a bit of breaking in, of seasoning--and so did the man who wore them."

Sometimes I'll just open Elegance to any random page, knowing that whatever I'll read will be easy on the eyes yet fully-loaded with lore and specifics. The man is a good writer.
Photo: The Sartorialist
Ok, back to Boyer's swathing. G. Bruce isn’t always monochromatically contrived. There’s enough playfulness in Boyer’s more adventurous rigs that precludes stodgy. There’s whimsy tethered to a Quaker State practicality that keeps Boyer on the safe side of full of beans while remaining disciplined enough to avoid looking like Mr. Bean.

And he’s a nice guy. Proof of this other than my personal experience, is that the younger, irony laden, edgy, urban style wannabes…respect and seek him out. Nobody shit talks Boyer. I won’t speak for him but I suspect that he’s found the explosion of style blogs and online sartorial repositories enjoyable. He doesn’t know how to use a cell phone but he’s keenly aware of what’s going on in the sartorial blogosphere. Just Google him and you’ll see that he’s either the subject of or the participant in a gaggle of online conversations.
The Sartorialist
But he’s not a pushover. I realized thirty years ago that if someone is loved by everyone then chances are he doesn’t stand for anything. Boyer’s anything but milquetoast. Caspar he ain’t. He has standards without being strident and he suffers no fools. But he conveys it with such elegant diplomacy that it’s never off-putting. A participant in one of my strategy simulations a few months ago characterized me as condescending. I’d prefer to typify it as pugnacious passion. But then again I’m wordy and delusional.
He’s also exacting without being retentive. I witnessed Boyer giving StevenHitchcock well founded, to-the-point requests for a tweak or two on a jacket. Tailors will generally admit that they've had at least one client whose body they could easily fit while failing miserably at fitting their mind. In other words there are some obsessives out there who will argue an eighth of an inch with their tailor. Folks, there is no eighth of an inch for cutters. Mohels maybe, but any tailor who agrees to adjust something an eighth of an inch will either do nothing or do more. Boyer knows what he wants and how he wants it and wastes no words when diplomatically conveying it.
A lot of what I see passing as sprezzatura amongst the look at me, ersatz urban urbane is really contrived angst…pack-mentalitzedirony. The unbuckled double-monked, shrunken clothed hipsters could take a cue from G-the-Bruce. True sprezza I think, occurs when one doesn’t give too much thought to it. Agnelli had it yet his grandson Lapo seems to caricature the legacy. If you hang out with Boyer or scroll through his photos, you’ll find just the right amount of whimsy without feeling a capricious bitch slap. Maybe just his upturned sleeve cuff is all that’s required to convey it. The ironic contrivers probably take an hour and half to get ready. My money says Boyer’s out the door in thirty minutes.
Photo: Rose Callahan
Let’s end this tribute with another Boyer style-ism and a quote. I’ve never been able to cinch a tie in a twisty-turny enough way to create the skinny-end playfulness that others do. Boyer nails it. I won’t be trying it. And here’s the quote…“It is both delusional and stupid to think that clothes don’t really matter and we should all wear whatever we want. Most people don’t take clothing seriously enough, but whether we should or not, clothes do talk to us and we make decisions based on people’s appearances.”

So here’s to my friend G. Bruce. A man-in-full…but not too much.

Onward. Adverbially tumescent. Peacocking, if you will.
ADG II

Unit Price Grab-Ass

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Now let's see. We open this edgy new store that fills the angst-irony-urban twee void that Rugby's departure created. Twenty or so days into it, we start the markdown goat-rodeo. "Now wait a minute, ADG, 15% off the entire inventory is a small concession for driving traffic into the store for a true, "in-store" experience."

I wonder if the consuming public are really this gullible. Build in margins on the front-end so that the discounts, the "specials", the "this weekend onlys", the "preferred customer whatevers" and the like are just part of the promotional mix, the marketing strategy, the commercial plan. What it tells me is that we've conditioned consumers to wait. For if they do so, they are bound to get almost the entire season's line in any and every store, at 25% off...if they are only slightly patient.

As for York Street? Whatever.

Onward. In a Pee Wee Herman Suit.

ADG II


Sterling and Burke Hosts Benson and Clegg

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My appreciation for Sterling & Burke is well established. I feel Bond-ish when I’m there. New and Old Bond that is. The streets. In London. Or maybe the Arcades…Piccadilly, Burlington and Royal—whatever. All I know is that in a world of consumerism marked by trendy, built-in obsolescence, Sterling & Burke offer an unguent to short-lived fripperies. Their goods have staying power. Like me. Shut up.
In our sound bite world of temporal edginess and drive-by irony, Sterling & Burke’s strategy is the opposite. They purvey things that are intended to last—out-last us actually. Things that are awaiting the patina that comes from cherished use…things that are leading candidates for being passed down and valued by others.
My buddy Scottie-the-Eff got me started on the Sterling & Burke journals that I now use routinely for work. I’m on the way to filling journal number two with my professional irreleventia. And I commissioned my replacement silk canopied Brigg umbrella with the graceful and accommodating folk at Sterling & Burke.
I mean, where else are there folk who will tolerate my long-winded back story about finding my first one in a cab in London and having the cabbie insist that I take it 'cause "some bloke left it in me cab this morning and I'm tired of hearing it wallow about."? And where else would someone, even if they were pretending, listen intently to me regarding why I HAD to replace my umbrella with the same silk canopy as the first one--because raindrops ping off of silk and just thud when landing on nylon? Try some of that lore-spreadin' caca over at J. Crew and they'll call Paul Blart. Damn.
I was in Sterling & Burke the other day, killing some time between LFG dance class sorties and revelling in their leather goods, journals, cufflinks and every conceivable umbrella contrivance. Sublime. And for some absurd reason, I walked into J. Crew to kill another fifteen minutes. The J. Crudités' tray of  paper-thin, ersatz artisanal whateverishness…courtesy of sweatshops the world over, seemed even more so after my Sterling & Burke visit.
And I’ve always associated Benson & Clegg with blazer buttons. At least one of my navy blazers has B&C sourced buttons and the visual treat of visiting their roost in Piccadilly Arcade is a routine part of my London visits. I wasn’t aware of their bespoke tailoring niche till I received an announcement from Sterling & Burke recently.
If their cutting and sewing was good enough for George VI, then who knows? Maybe we are about to discover a well kept secret. The B&C team will be on premises at S&B March 14-16. I’m on spending lock down but it won’t keep me from going by and seeing what these guys are all about—Bespoke and Made-to-Measure wise. Shoot me an email. If you’d like to meet-up for drinks and then walk over and buy me a B&C rig-up over at Sterling & Burke, I’ll allow it. Here’s the announcement…


Benson & Clegg visits for Bespoke Suiting Event
March 14 - 16, 2013

Sterling & Burke welcomes Benson & Clegg to Washington, DC for their first overseas Bespoke Suiting Event outside of New York City.  
 The cutters Kenneth Austin & Tony Martin from Benson & Clegg in London will be visiting America in March offering their range of tailoring services, bringing Savile Row style and quality direct to Sterling & Burke Ltd customers in the USA.

Offering the latest patterns of fine English and Italian fabrics, including such prestigious brands as Scabal, Holland & Sherry and Hunt & Winterbottom, to name but a few. Appointments will be held at Sterling & Burke Ltd, 2824 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW. Alternatively, if a home or office appointment is required, they are happy to accommodate.
Please call 202.333.2266 or email enquiries@2824penn.com to schedule your appointment.
Thursday, March 14:  9:30 am - 5:00 pm
Friday, March 15:  9:30 am - 7:00 pm
Saturday, March 16:  9:30 am - 3:00 pm

Made to Measure
For the first time on our overseas visits Benson & Clegg is offering our superlative 'Made to Measure' service. These garments produce an excellent quality suit, custom made for the individual. Their cutters use their wealth of experience and skills to ensure your garment is crafted to the highest possible standards. 
With a large range of classic and modern fabrics, lining choices, as well as finer details such as real horn buttons and working cuffs, your garment will be an individual creation designed to your specifications.
Prices start from £770.00

Hand Made Bespoke Tailoring

The best clothing you can get. Entirely handmade on the Benson & Clegg premises in London, England. The craft and workmanship is unparalleled, with typically over fifty hours of precision labour in each suit. They pride themselves on comfortable individually styled clothes of subtle elegance, with an emphasis on top level workmanship. Benson & Clegg have a traditional handmade look, from the natural shoulder line to the elegant silhouette of the side seams. The majority of our customers opt for a two button single breasted suit jacket. However our cutters are able to work to almost any brief, for example single-breasted button one, two or three, double breasted formal, smart or casual. We have a vast selection of cloth to choose from, all of the very highest quality.
Prices start from £2,333.00

(As always—‘till someone tempts me with an offer I flat-out can’t refuse, I have received no favor from Sterling & Burke or Benson & Clegg for writing and posting this announcement)

Tatas and Milk

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Two floors below is Labor and Delivery…headquarters for joy and hope and tender beauty. Youth and happiness. New beginnings. One floor below is Oncology…beginnings and farewells. The twain in contest.

Every elevator ride here hosts a load of native humanity. Disease and dotage pay but vague heed to where you went to school and who your daddy was. I just rode up with new friends I’d made in the lobby…two little African American girls dressed as ballerinas. So damned cute. Instant ear-to-ear smile on my face.  I couldn't help but feel joy making its way out of my heavy heart. Their grandma was taking them to see their new little brother. One was all-in…ready to see herbaby. Her little-er, cuter sister couldn't have given less of a damn. She had a singular mission. To push every button on the elevator panel and she did. I liked that the elevator became a local. It caused us to take longer to get to our floors and I giggled with the ballerinas. Grandma didn’t.

These critical care nurse angels—they just finished bathing and pampering and moisturizing and swathing my vegetative ventilated mother. She smells good and her skin is pink and soft and healthy looking. And I'm still talking to her as if we were sitting at the kitchen table. And then it feels stupid because even if she might be hearing me, she's unable to respond to any command...any half-hearted "squeeze my hand if..."

And trust me—the fact that all of her adult children are in town, standing beside her bed holding her and talking to her and loving up on her—if she could respond—her eyes would be wide open. And she would tell my little brother that he needs to lose weight and my sister would hear my mama say apologetically that my sis is still pretty...even with the ravages of the lupus that mother passed to daughter. She’d tell me that I look tired and I’d tell her that she’d look tired too if she’d slept the last three nights in a recliner by her ICU bed—anything but lulled by the lock-step never miss a beat cadence hiss-puff of her respirator. And I'd tell her that I'm happy, insistent actually, to be spending night  four in the same spot since she'd spent many a night never leaving my side.

I desperately need some of the life affirming delight that lives elsewhere in this chamber. I'm going two floors down to look at those other guests and welcome them to earth while I  manage the ennui associated with my mom not being able to decide to exit it. I’ll angle for another dose of joy from little ones who are also pink and swathed and bundled and smelling good. Little ones not yet burdened with reconciling the value of remaining in this temporal world while sorting out their readiness to let go of it—the twain in contest. Their motivation and focus is sweet and pure and simple and I envy it. Their twain? 

Tatas and Milk. 
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